I somehow broke a piece of my driver side vent in my 2006 Lexus RX400h. I did some searching but couldn't find anything and even went as far going to the dealer... they weren't really that helpful. Does anyone know if I could just buy this piece as a replacement? If not, what is the right piece that I have to buy? I might start junkyard searching...
I posted on another lease price thread, however it is so old, so I thought I would create a current thread that is current.
I need advice, as I am about to either purchase or lease a 2019 NX 300 F Sport FWD, with many options/packages.
I just received my first offer, and would like your thoughts as to whether this is a good deal, and if not what should be reduced or eliminated in this offer.
Proposal build figures:
Lexus NX 300 F Sport FWD - many options
MSRP: $46,863.00
Discount: $5,260.00
Adjusted Sale Price: $41,603.00
Sales Price Sub-Total: $41,603.00
Trade Allowance: $0.00
Difference: $41,603.00
Tax: $3,959.89
Tag and Title Fees: $573.75
Documentation Fee: $80.00
Total: $46,216.64
Trade Payoff: $0.00
Rebate: $500.00
Balance Forward: $45,716.64
Out of Pocket, 0 months, $0.00
$45,716.64
Total Rebate $500.00
*Estimated APR 0.00%
I attached the spec sheet that describes all of the options.
The wheels I bought recently were BBS SX - Crystal Black, and the distributor contacted me back and said they were unable to determine whether or not the wheels would clear the calipers.
The website said the wheels would work with my IS 350 though.
So I've been scrambling to see whether or not these wheels would fit. Here are the specs:
17" x 7.5"
+42 offset
5x114.3 Bolt Pattern, 74mm Hub
Do you know if these wheels would be able to clear? Sorry about the inconvenience.
How long did you keep your OG tires for your GX, mine are Bridgestone DUELER H/T 840 BW P 265/60R18 109H, for a certified 2016 with 28k miles? After getting a flat tire (given it was a nail), I found out that the dealer only replaced 2 of the og tires. The sales person lead both my husband and I to believe that the majority of Lexus Certified vehicles get new brake pads and new tires if less than 60% tread/wear was left. He also made it sound like my vehicle had gotten 4 new tires which he is now denying The last tire tread reading was in Dec. of 2017 at 20k miles. Maintenance records say DESCRIPTION: SERVICE - 20,000 MILES ~|~SERVICE - 20,000 MILES ~|~ ~|~20918 BRAKE WEAR- FRONT AT 7.5 MM AND REAR AT 8 MM REMAINING. TIRE WEAR- FRONT AT 6/32" AND REAR AT 8-9/32" REMAINING. I'm assuming they replaced the 6/32" tires with the new ones and may have kept the other 2? Attached a picture of the flat, and if you zoom in you see that the tire is older and was from 2015 (something I didn't check the other day). Then on 8/22/18 (day before I purchased) the maint records show the certified "check" at 28+K miles. It says SERVICE: MOUNT AND BALANCE TWO TIRES DT# DESCRIPTION: MOUNT AND BALANCE TWO TIRES DT# ~|~MOUNT AND BALANCE TWO TIRES DT# (anyone know what DT# means?). Then it says PERFORM FOUR WHEEL ALIGNMENT ~|~PERFORM FOUR WHEEL ALIGNMENT ~|~COMPLETED FOUR WHEEL ALIGNMENT ~|~28691 150. Is it unusual that for this type of inspection (which they brag so much about) they don't provide a reading on the tread of the two tires they didn't replace? Also does anyone know what the 150 means? I would inspect the last OG tire myself, but they have it in the shop right now...fixing a few things and the tire. Originally they were going to ask me to pay for the replacement tire which I didn't understand, b/c A.) thought they were all brand new and B.) on my previous lexus (not certified) any time I purchased new tires from Lexus it included 24-month roadside hazard coverage. After I told them that I discovered there was two older tires not replaced, and that one of them just conveniently ended up being the flat one, they agreed to replace the flat at no cost as "courtesy." Originally they were going to try and make me pay half. Should I just be happy and walk away? I am struggling b/c now it's bugging me that I feel mislead and that they should have replaced ALL tires. Is that unrealistic? This is my first certified Lexus purchase and I was justifying the $3k-$4k extra sticker price over a non-certified one with 13k miles b/c I was told I was getting all these "extras" in addition to the additional bumper to bumper warranty. HELP!! I'm a chick who knows very little about cars. I thought I would have had a better experience at a Lexus dealership, even if buying a used car. Just so disappointed since I have the WORST luck with tires in the last few months. Thank you thank you in advance!
So guys what I need is advice from mechanics or people good at not only replacing stuff but repairing stuff. Which are 2 very different things.
So for a few weeks now there has been a sound when I turn my wheel, it had coincided with my changing of tires so I had thought it was rubbing. But in retrospect it is not...it is basically a squeaky sound whenever I make turns on my steering wheel, so it couldnt be tires.
Yesterday the car would start fine, but with an extra weird sound... if I had to guess what sound it was.. it sounded like the power steering motor failing to start . off.. like some kind of hydraulic actuator of some sort failing to go, The error message on the screen, showed the VSC system error and the power steering error. So the wheel basically was near impossible to turn. I was stuck roadside, a friend came and managed to clear the codes and long story short, it only clears till you next turn off the car and the same thing happens again. C1555 C1304 but these codes are from a scanner tool, not techstream.
Dealer diagnosis was some sort of welding failure on the motor housing which is located on the axle I will include pictures. it is where the steering column meets the axle. And because they do not sell that part separately it or repair anything it will be 6000 USD lol Well I am not paying 6000 or even 3000 for that. What I need guys is some realistic solutions. Lexus/toyota is listing the part as difficult or impossible to disassemble. But we all know that is mostly untrue in many cases.
Driving my new IS300 yesterday on NB 294 about 3 miles south of Lake Cook when suddenly I could no longer accelerate and had to pull onto the shoulder. Turned off the car and tried to re-start the engine but would just sit and crank. Had to get it towed to Arlington Lexus where they are looking at it now.
I wasnt driving hard - sport mode at about 85 MPH. High-ish RPMs but nothing crazy.
What the hell would cause this to happen? I had a half tank of gas and it wasnt running hot. No smells of any kind. The engine just quit. The service manager told me that I could be a fuel pump but at 5,000 miles that would be pretty surprising.
I'm replacing the factory amp in my 98 LS400 w/ nakamichi with another factory one. I looked around the trunk, but I couldn't find where the original amp is mounted. Does anyone know where it should be?
Can someone please share what parts were needed to solve the steering clunk on their LS430?
This is not a thread for theories or opinions (God knows there are plenty of those). Please only post if you have solved the problem and know what the issue was and what parts were needed to fix.
We recently installed a new steering rack and a brand new steering column in my dad's 2005 Sienna and all the clunking went away on it. To do that on an LS430 would be HUGE money so if there's a cheaper fix, please share!
It is not suspension related, I believe it's something that gets loose in the column assembly.
I am having the door lock actuator issue. I am trying to figure out the correct part number to replace the part and have ran into confusion. I have also search and searched and can't seem to find a solid answer, which is quite strange. Some sites say that the correct part number is 69040-42250.. while other sites seem to say this part number is wrong that that the correct part is 69040-0C050... I have already received a new 69040-0C050 thinking it was correct but before I opened up my door I decided to confirm yet again and now I am not as confident as I was when I ordered this. It also doesnt help that the Ebay fitment guides also dont seem to be accurate.
Can someone help? I apologize if this has already been discussed but when I searched the threads I was not able to find any solid info.
Hello. I have a 2002 rx300. Last year the transmission started slipping and making a grinding noise. I found a jdm transmission online for $500 to my door so I figured I'd give it a try. I pulled the old one out and took the transfer case off and replaced it on the new trans with all new seals, oil and filter.
When I went to drive the car it shifted great up until it went into overdrive. When shifting into overdrive it felt like someone kicking the back of the car. The trans isnt slipping as far as I can tell, just like there is too much pressure.
I reset the learned values on the ecu and it shifted nice and smooth for a little while then back to the hard shift. Last weekend I swapped out the speed sensors with the ones on the original trans and reset the ecu, same thing, smooth shifts for a couple days then back to the big push.
Is there a reason my ecu is going back to its bad habits? Anyone have any ideas what to do?
In general what do you guys think the better deal is. A little about me, I will be driving 40 mile highway for work 5 times a week. I need a reliable car for at least 2 years.
.
2006 RX 400H, 180,000 miles, AWD for 6800
vs
2003 Lexus RX 300, 106,000 miles, AWD for 4800
Assuming both cars are basically the same maintained (big if I know!) what do you guys think is the better deal. The gas mileage is really different 20 vs almost 30 on highway. I can only really afford to bring one to a mechanic to take a look at it. I am leaning toward the 400H.
What questions should I ask? What do you guys think is the best choice?
2016 NX FSport
Passenger side air conditioning not blowing refrigerated air since last night. Just outside air, even at LO.
Driver side is normal.
Weird?
Appointment made for Tuesday at dealer.
Last year, the air quit coming out of the rear seat vent, ECU reset resolved.
About 3 weeks ago I started losing my radio reception. While I am driving after a few miles I start getting static on the station I am listening to. I find another station that seems to be strong and the same thing happens I live in the Boston area and should get strong signals. I used to like I said up until a few weeks ago. Any suggestions.
I have the dreaded issue everyone on here seems to have with my ISF. I barely crossed over 100k and started leaking from the coolant valley plate. Im going to do the job myself. I searched everywhere for the torque specs of the intake manifold and all the other parts that will be removed but have not been able to find anything. I dont want to pay $500ish for the 4 manuals for our car on eBay which I think is a rediculous amount for manuals. If anyone can help me out I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
My sunshade has a crease in it possibly by the sunshade mechanism and I can tell that the fibers are being pulled apart with each and every time shade operates. I was wondering if Lexus will warranty it and replace it for me. Or would that be a wear and tear item that I shouldn't bother with taking it in. Please let me know your thoughts.
I recently purchased a clean 98 LS400 with 158k miles about 3 weeks ago. It's been smooth sailing so far, and I've put over 1000 miles on the car already.
During my commute yesterday, I noticed the red battery light flashing on and off intermittently and pulled over and shut off the car asap, worried that I'd be stuck dead in the middle of the road during rush hour having to push a 2 ton boat out of the way by myself. Not really being able to check out the alternator on the side of the road, I disconnected the battery and cleaned the terminals even though they seemed pretty clean already. After about 5 minutes I reconnected it and started the car. In park, there was no battery light. But once I shifted into drive, the battery light was stuck on.
I was close to work so I risked it, and the car apparently seemed to heal itself. After setting off, the battery light stayed stuck on for a couple miles. Then eventually, it began to flash on and off intermittently, not seeming to follow a pattern with the throttle or idle or anything. And then, just a few blocks from work, the battery light went away. On my drive back home that night, about 30 miles, there was no battery light whatsoever and it was smooth sailing and business as usual.
The previous owner installed a new battery and alternator just before I purchased the car. Are these symptoms of a dying alternator? (it could be a china ebay special). Would disconnecting the battery have anything to do with these symptoms? If so, why didn't it resolve the issue immediately? Anything else I should check out?
Hello CL community,
Sadly it's time to let my ISF, Jasmine, go. She has been my baby over the last 2 years but I need to let her go because I need to downgrade for my family. When I was younger this was my dream car, so you know I took care of her.
I am the second owner, and I knew the first owner. The carfax says 4, but it has been registered in 4 states so it says change of ownership for some reason. From Louisiana to Texas. I bought in Texas and brought it to California.
She has been garaged her entire life, and has been DEALER SERVICED for everything. A couple of oil changes were completed with a Lexus certified shop called LexService out here in California. I have had an extended warranty from bumper to bumper and that WILL carry over, which expires next August.
2008 Lexus ISF.
97K miles
New Bridgestone tires last January.
Valley plate coolant leak fixed by Newport Lexus in May.
New navigation screen replaced by Lexus 2 years ago.
New hood shocks replaced by Lexus.
Fresh transmission flush.
ALL electronics work.
Roxfordgate Amp and Sub professionally installed by a very reputable audio shop in Huntington Beach.
There are 3 cosmetic scuffs.
The front left bumper has a crack (pictured below).
Rear driver side rim has a small scuff.
Driver door handle has knicks in it, NOT from me. (pictured below)
There may be a small scuff on the paint on the hood, haven't figured out what thats from but its nothing major and hardly noticeable.
Other than that the paint is in incredible shape, and the interior is very lean with NO RIPS in any of the leather.
She is not my daily driver anymore so it's time to move on. This has been the best car I have ever owned and she will last another 100k easily. I have meticulously taken care of her. Washed every week and oil changed before every 5,000 miles.
I have the clean carfax in hand.
I will smog when buyer gets serious, it will pass no problem.
The title is with LA federal credit union but it should be painless to get it after the car is paid off.
I would put more, but you guys all know what an ISF is all about. I will post all my recent pics below.
I live in Long Beach, and work in Irvine California. If you are somewhere else and are interested get in touch with me and we will figure it out.
Call/text anytime (402) 990-4792. My name is Jon
(Sorry for the poorly ordered pics below, I just wanted to include them all for you guys!)
$25,0000
