Contact Meraki Autoworks for the best pricing and fastest shipping on performance products and styling products for your Lexus.
We stock thousands of parts with fast shipping across the US & we ship internationally.
Check out our website, www.merakiautoworks.com, and if you see something you like,
Contact us and we'll provide you with a great price. Don't see it? Contact us and we might still have it!
Found a lower price? Contact us and we'll beat it!
Contact us for pricing and information!
-Josh
Thanks to forum member JayCray, he was able to get his hands on one of the first LC500 Seibon Carbon hoods and will be displayed at the SEMA show this year.
We will definitely get you guys multiple pictures of it on the car within the coming weeks.
Let us know if you are interested in this hood and if you would like to be one of the first with it!
Contact Meraki Autoworks for the best pricing and fastest shipping on performance products and styling products for your Lexus.
We stock thousands of parts with fast shipping across the US & we ship internationally.
Check out our website, www.merakiautoworks.com, and if you see something you like,
Contact us and we'll provide you with a great price. Don't see it? Contact us and we might still have it!
Found a lower price? Contact us and we'll beat it!
Contact us for pricing and information!
-Josh
Enhance your Lexus LC500 by adding the ARMYTRIX Stainless Steel Exhaust System. This system will increase power, reduce weight, and improve sound. This precision-made performance system delivers more power, especially in the low and mid rev range, the effect on the sound is significant, adding a deep resonant sporty sound, but at the same time neutralizes the annoying frequencies in the most critical rpm range. ARMYTRIX exhaust systems differ from other brand's exhaust systems with their unique "Throttle Pedal Sensor and Engine RPM Signal Auto Functions". Through this system ARMYTRIX offers car owners a better launch-start without losing backpressure by automatically closing the valves at low rpm. When your car is driving at high speeds, the valves will automatically open to increase air flow for better performance (hp & torque gained) and sound. Car owners can set their own timing for valves to automatically open and close by engine rpm and how deep they press the gas pedal. It's a new innovative system that brings your car to a different level. With the ARMYTRIX you are not getting just an exhaust system, you are getting a driving system unlike any you have experienced before. When car owners turn on the race mode (valves opened), the gas goes through the section of straight pipes. This is where you get the incredible race sound and performance gain. In full throttle and it's straight pipe all the way, which means you will be expecting the LOUDEST sound performance you'll ever hear!
I am talking to my dealer on a RC-F and if we come to terms the IS will have to go.
this is a '10 IS-F - LOW MILES 15,000 - Matador Red - 1 owner
All recalls have been done
Car is stock, NEVER tracked.
No accidents or issues.
Contact Meraki Autoworks for the best pricing and fastest shipping on performance products and styling products for your Lexus.
We stock thousands of parts with fast shipping across the US & we ship internationally.
Check out our website, www.merakiautoworks.com, and if you see something you like,
Contact us and we'll provide you with a great price. Don't see it? Contact us and we might still have it!
Found a lower price? Contact us and we'll beat it!
Contact us for pricing and information!
-Josh
Here is what the new Tom's Racing body kit for the Lexus ISF looks nice now! New updated design that looks like the GSF/RCF kit.
Contact us for pricing, kits in stock! (Can separate individual pieces)
Mods are K&N FIPK intake and exhaust. Im at sea level in North Carolina.
I have an AEM UEGO X-Series Wideband installed already, which is why Id like to see what settings people with similar mods are running on their NEO. I want an initial target map so I can safely do a street tune and then tweak it from there. I think I may go for 12.5 - 12.8 at WOT based on my initial research.
The NEO goes in soon, so appreciate if someone can share their High map settings with me. Ill be posting the install video on my YouTube channel to help other enthusiasts.
Hi all, looking at some new wheels for my '08 ISF but I'm worried the rears won't fit (I'm on stock suspension and have no plans to change that) the wheels only come in 19"x8.5" ET45 and 19"x10" ET40 (or worse offsets), now I'm pretty confident the fronts will fit but the rears are gonna stick out nearly 28mm more than stock according to a quick online calc.
Anyone know if this is doable or does it require messing with the arches? If it's a no go would it be possible to run the 19x8.5" all round as the tyre would still be as wide just the wheel 0.5" narrower?
I got an email from my auto insurance indicating that there is a new recall on my car for another air bag issue. Wasnt sure if anybody else got this? Attached screenshot of recall...
I recently changed all 4 brake pads and rotors. Now I get a terrible squeaking noise every time I start the car and reverse.
A mechanic told me to deal with it as there is nothing that can be done.
Where I live is very humid. What are the best set of brake pads I can buy to stop this annoying/embarrassing squeak?
So I searched and searched throughout the forum and couldn't find any confirmed answers. This will pertain to the infamous question of a 98 sc300 (not positive on a 400 but assume the same) manual swap cel problem. I just purchased a 98 sc300 vvti that was already 5 speed swapped with the tripod w58. The car needed and engine so I replaced the engine with my old one. I found when starting the car the cel wouldn't show assuming there was non then when pulling the cluster I found that the previous owner removed the bulb. I replaced the bulb and boom cel was on for the trans solenoid codes etc. After looking everywhere I couldn't find a for sure fix for it. So I removed the old solenoids from my old auto trans I had laying around.
I mounted the transmission on an engine and spun it around. Pulled the pan off and started removing the solenoids along with the harness. The retrieve the last one you have to pull the valve body off by removing all of the 10mm bolts around the valve body. Then remove the harness through the hole and plug all of the solenoids into the harness along withe the gear selector and the other two sensors on the transmission. The two smaller solenoids need to be grounded out to work right. After grounding the two you can clear the cel and presto changeo the cel should not return. Make sure to set the gear selector to park to be able to start the car.
So to reiterate if you remove ALL OF THE SENSORS AND SOLENOIDS the light will clear for those codes as long as you ground out those two smaller solenoids.
When it comes to the reverse lights working I and still currently working on that but I will update when completed. I will also redo the transmission sensor and solenoid removal process on another transmission to take pictures to better display the process.
I have not found anything else. Anyone else found some interesting total replacement covers? Not cases because that doesnt change the form factor. Let me know guys.
Hi all. Would like to adjust my low beams a tiny bit upwards for better light projection. Has any done this? Is it the adjustment circled in yellow? The picture shows the back of a drivers side headlight. Doess clockwise = Up?
I was just curious the difference between the Lexus and the Toyota dealer price quotes for the spark plug replacement so I called to get a comparison and Lexus wanted $960 vs Toyota's quote of $250.
Do you think the Toyota dealer is going by what they charge for the Highlander?
Does anyone know if the bolt pattern from the new 2019 ES ( and probably Avalon, Camry under the new platform) driver's seat match up to the 2013-2018 ES? Looking to replace a driver's seat with the newer ones hopefully.
Would the Lexus or Toyota parts department (or techs) typically be able to provide the specifics?
Went to UMS Tuning in Mesa, AZ this morning to put the car on the dyno. They use a Dynapack dyno. First pull is without the air box open, second pull is with the air box open. Decided to dyno the car before I start modifying so that I can document the incremental power changes as the modifying begins. Next up is a PPE mid-pipe that is currently being fabricated (decided to go with them since no one has posted a video with PPE midpipe on stock exhaust and I'll eventually get PPE headers.) I'm starting a Vlog to document the cars modifying journey and as a reference for current or potential GS F owners looking to mod. You can check it out here https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCct...TTOuFLGRpVtucw . Videos will be posted soon. Thanks.
Hi! I recently purchased a 2004 Lexus RX330 for a scorching deal with only 69,000 miles on the clock! I'm very happy with it so far but am dealing with a very minor issue: the rear power liftgate function is not functional at all. I can still manually open and close the liftgate, but pushing the button on the key-fob (or the one on the trunk or inside of the car) yields no response.
Typically, I hear of the motors going bad on these, but even then the car still emits the beeping sound. Mine does not -- it simply has no response to the button being pushed.
So far I've:
-verified the button in the glove box area is pushed in
-reset the battery
-checked all relevant fuses under the hood and in the driver's-side footwell
-manually opened and closed the trunk (which the latching mechanism works just fine)
The odd thing is, over the course of owning the car for a few months, I have heard the beeping sound maybe once or twice at random times but the door still does not open. I try to get that sound to come back but it has happened maybe twice and I get excited but then nothing happens.
Anyone have any suggestions that might help?? I'm stumped at the moment.
The story is that my dad recently replaced the battery on my remote start key (It is an aftermarket viper system) and after confirming the engine started with the new battery in the key, he turns off the engine with the key. This would be the end of the story, but after an hour he had an errand to run and took a different car but noticed that my Lexus was still on (Headlights were blinking on and off and the horn was making a quiet sound every once in a while) almost like the engine stopped but the accessory power was on in a weird way. After seeing this he tried to get the car to turn off, but it wouldn't so he proceeds to disconnect the battery, wait and try again. It still proceeded to turn on and off along with the repeated honking noise (it wasn't a full loud honking, it was a quiet once), this time he couldn't get the engine on, nor get into accessory power by pressing the start-stop, but the car was still turning the headlights on and off and the horn was still going on and off. He thought that maybe a capacitor was still charge and it needed to be drained so he disconnected the battery overnight. This morning I go out to check what is wrong, so I connected the battery and the headlight was still going on and off while the horn was also going on and off. I could not get the engine to start nor get into accessory power mode. I do not know what is wrong with the car, my thoughts are maybe I should look for the relay for the aftermarket remote start and disconnect it and see if it'll work, but wanted to get some voices on the forum to see if anyone has gone through this and if they could help me. I couldn't find a post about this problem, but if there is one it would be much appreciated if you could forward it to me. Thank you.
Condition is in the pictures any other questions feel free to ask. Will ship at buyers expense. I accept cash,PayPal or Facebook payments.
Thank you for your time.
