Im doing the big 3 to my 2017 Lexus is350 F sport. I heard there is one or more(?) Engine ground wire? I found one from the passenger side, its black with white strip and goes from the side to the front then goes under the front of the engine. Is this the only one?
I have an '04 UL with the Mark Levinson and navigation. When talking over Bluetooth, audio only plays out the driver side front speaker. Is that normal or is something wrong?
I suppose that a mat looks a little more elegant but I doubt very much that anyone is going to notice if its carpet or rubber under my brake pedal. Is there any reason that Im not considering why liners dont make more sense? My car comes with mats but Im sure that I can upgrade.
Recommendations for this with an iPhone? I had an app that requires steps to link to the server but I want a seamless constant recording that doesn't require additional steps with outgoing or incoming calls.
i am unable to find torque specs on the awd model. I would like to know torque specs for strut lower bolt as well as the front diff bolts if anyone knows ..thanks
According to Rays/Volk, removing 1 kg (2.2 lbs) of weight from the hub equals the equivalent of removing 33pounds from the body.
According to my math, the OEM wheels and tires average out to roughly 50 pounds a corner (rears a little higher, fronts a little lower). If someone were to buy low weight wheels and tires (18 pound wheels, Michelin sport cup 2s or super sports) they could easily get to 42-43 pounds per corner. If you went to 2 piece rotors, thats another 6 pounds per corner. Total, you would save 13 plus pounds per corner.
Thats 52 lbs total, or 23.6 KG. So... according to Rays, you can cut the equivalent of 780 pounds from your car.
that seems nuts. Has anyone done this and can you confirm the reduction in weight is that dramatic of a difference? 780 pounds is roughly 20% of a stock ISF weight.
Has anyone installed a Dash Cam in their IS250 2014?
I just got a Roav C1 Pro Dash cam and was wondering if anyone installed it/hardwired or wired in?
I am trying to decide where to put it, while allowing the cable to reach the USB ports - under the arm rest console.
It came with a cig -> USB adapter too, but... that is even further to reach.
Any suggestions on installing a dash cam to make it seamless while reaching the ports inside the arm rest?
Long time viewer, just joined. Glad to be a member on the forum.
Please excuse my question if it is a repeat or in the wrong forum as I did not find too much information pertaining to my question.
My question is aimed at those who have done it or have knowledge of it.
Do you guys know if GX 460 2nd generation (2011-2013) can be facelifted with (2015-2017) Prado's entire front (including front lights, bumper, and grille) and rear taillights? I do understand that in addition to Prado's side fenders & items listed above, front hood will also be needed for the facelift.
Since they use similar panels, I was of the impression that it might be a possibility but I was looking online at some parts and noticed that it had stated that Prado's taillights were not compatible with GX 460 (not sure if it was due to wiring being a little different or some other factor). Just wondering if compatibility will also be an issue even with the replaced parts mentioned in previous paragraphs.
Thank you guys much and look forward to hearing some informative answers.
Hey everyone I have 1994 sc400 love it great car. I recently got a new pioneer touchscreen headunit, put in by best buy cause free installation. Anyway I did that and the guy at best buy told me that he would need to bypass the amp or have me buy a new amp, I just wanted to hear from you guys what thought. The radio is in but there's a whining noise that is in tune with the engine so if I rev it gets louder.
TLDR: NEW pioneer headunit installed, there is now a whine and I was told to do an amp bypass or buy a new amp by best buy
Have for sale a very cleans set of 97+ fog lights $150 plus shipping and PP fees.
JDM mirror covers with built in turn signals painted 1CO for 99/00 SC400. I had these sitting in my closet for years and decided to get rid them. They are brand new never installed, no damage. $150 plus shipping and PP fees.
Woodgrain steering wheel from an 10 RX300, wood in in good condition, leather has some wear at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. In good condition otherwise. $25 plus shipping and PP fees.
Black steering and airbag from an 01 IS300 in good condition, $65 plus shipping and PP fees.
All parts are located in Lawrenceville GA, local pickup welcome. Contact me at 678-662-2483 for additional pics/info
For sale is a very clean set of 97+ fog lights, all mounting tabs intact. $150.00 plus PP fees and shipping.
JDM Mirror covers brand new, painted 1CO, $150.00 plus shipping and PP fees.
01 RX300 woodgrain steering wheel, wood in great condition, leather has some wear at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions $25.00 plus shipping and PP fees.
01 IS300 black wheel and air bag good condition, $75 plus shipping and PP fees.
PayPal info eldong300@yahoo.com. Local pickup welcome. Contact me at 678-662-2483 for additional info pics.
just purchased my first Lexus. I love it!!! It was a corporate lease car with only 4,500 miles on it. Ive had it for 2 months and now it has 7k. Im looking at a few tasteful mods to set it off, but not to a level of gaudiest. Any ideas...or where on this forum can I see ideas?
For sale is a clean set of 97+ fog lights $150 plus shipping and PP fees.
JDM mirror covers, brand new painted 1CO $150.00 plus shipping and PP fees.
01 RX300 woodgrain steering wheel wood in good condition leather has some wear at the 3 and 9 o clock positions. $25.00 plus shipping
01 IS300 black steering wheel in good condition $75.00 plus shipping and PP fees.
PayPal address is eldong300@yahoo.com. Contact me at 678-662-2483 for additional info/pics.
97 fog lights $150 plus shipping and PP fees
JDM mirror covers $150.00 plus shipping and PP fees
01 RX300 woodgrain wheel wood in great condition $25.00 plus shipping and PP fees.
01 IS300 black wheel and air bag. $75.00 plus shipping and PP fees.
PayPal address is eldong300@yahoo.com. Contact me at 678-662-2483 for additional info/pics.
For sale a clean set of fogs lights $150.
JDM mirror covers $150.
01 RX300 woodgrain wheel leather has some wear at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions, $25.00
01 IS300 black wheel in good condition $75.00.
Buyer pays all shipping and PP fees. PayPal address is eldong300@yahoo.com. Contact me at 678-662-2483 for additional pics/info
Aloha Fellow RX'rs,
Had a loud rumbling/growling/vibration from the front end of the car. Most notable at 40MPH. Diagnosis, wheel bearings after reading and viewing much info here and on Youtube.
I've read through some of the other posts on how to do it, thought I'd offer my $0.02 on shortcuts I learned. Did both sides of the front in under 3 hours. The first one took almost 2 hours, the second one and cleanup took an hour. The drivers side was the most noisy and confirmed once I had it off the car. I spun the hub and even at hand spun speed it was noisy and grinding. But the passengers side was worse and the debris it left on the axle was much worse than the other side. It was almost as loud as the drivers side.
Tools needed:
30mm, 12 point, impact socket. This is for the axle nut that is torqued down to 217 ft/lbs.
A heavy duty torque wrench that can torque to 217 ft/lbs. Picked up a Tekton model 24340 from Amazon.
A good Air impact wrench. Picked up a new one as my old one died. A Cambell Hausfeld TL140200AV, good up to 550 ft lbs. (but it still wasn't enough for a few bolts, more later.) I have a 25 gallon compressor and something like will need something more than a "pancake" compressor.
Impact sockets, extensions, universal joint will help.
A 3' cheater 1/2" driver bar with a piece of pipe for extra leverage.
Tie rod or other puller, see the one I used for the tie rods and to remove the steering knuckle from the axle.
Nut penetrating solution
New axle nuts as you can't re-use the old ones.
Dremel tool with metal cut off wheel
Hardened metal punches, one of those can opening tools for paint cans from Home Depot.
Jack, jack stands.
Wine, to ease my aching 58 year old back.
I ordered two new complete steering knuckles from Advanced Auto.
Part numbers are LK023 and LK024 for Moog parts.
They come complete with a new axle nut. So shiny !
Here's the factory diagram and some of the torque settings:
With the car safely jacked up, on jack stands, rear tires chocked, parking brake on, remove the front tires.
Remove the small nut holding the ABS sensor and the nut holding it's cable and the brake line. Undo the plastic clip holding the ABS sensor and move it to safety on the top of the shock.
Some say to disassemble your brakes by removing the sliding caliper bolts. I didn't and there is really no need. Remove the 2 caliper bolts. It helps to turn the wheel. E.g. if you are working on the drivers side, turn the wheels to the left. Use a bungee etc. to tie the caliper safely up and out of the way. I used a piece of thick copper wire I had laying around from the brake job I did. I posted that with pictures so maybe search for it if you are doing brakes ?
Remove the rotor. I just did my brakes (see prior post above) and they just fell off (used anti-seize on the hubs so that helped too). If you have never popped your rotors off, there are 2 bolt holes. Using 8mm x 1.25 bolts, alternate tightening each one and your rotors will pop free.
Drivers side, caliper bolts
Next, remove the steering tie-rod. Remove the cotter pin and remove the bolt. You'll need a puller to pop it free.
Tie rod free
Here's a tough part. The 2 bolts that hold the steering knuckle to the shock are held in with Locktite. My new air impact didn't budge these. Use a long cheater bar and a piece of pipe. Don't worry about holding the bolts, they won't move and you'll need all your strength to pop these suckers (nuts) free.
These don't look so bad. Loctite holds them on.
This is the top part of my jack handle, came in real handy for this part !
Once you break them free, your air racket can do the rest. Push down on the hub assembly to free the pressure on the bolts and slide them out, be careful not to grind the threads on the way out.
Here's where I'll offer 2 options. Because I live in Kona, shops are SUPER expensive. Even to press out the old bearings, cut off the races from the spindle, press in a new bearing, etc. was $400 at my local shop. And I still had to remove the thing. The Toyota dealer wanted $1,200 a side to do the whole job.
So, I purchased new complete steering knuckles with new bearings already in. I'll highlight what I did to put these new ones in and note if you are going to take your old one to a shop to press out/in new bearings, what the differences are.
Remove the two nuts and 1 bolt holding the lower tie rod to the bottom of the steering knuckle. Trick- lift the steering knuckle up to free the two bolts from the lower control arm.
Now the part that took me a long time to figure out.
The axle nut is "punched" to keep it from backing off. You have to ensure that depressed area doesn't jack up your axle threads on the way off or you get to replace your axles. After much trial and failure, I pulled my dremel tool out. With a metal cut off wheel, I cut two lines on either side and the top of the area (see pictures cuz I can't describe it well). With the "punched" part of the axle nut freer to move, I used a punch and that little can opener tool from the paint department at Home Dept (it fits perfectly) to lift this section up and off the threads. A little nut penetrating spray and the 30mm 12 point impact and it came right off. Surprised that the impact could pop this off when it's torqued down to 217 ft/lbs but it couldn't budge the shock bolts (locktite, love it to hold things, hard to fight to take things off lol).
Punched part of axle nut, ground down with dremel tool with cut off wheel.
Make sure you clear the "punched" part of the axle nut so you don't tear up the threads on your axle.
Remove the whole thing from the axle with a puller.
Had this puller since high school to remove timing chain pullys lol. Came in handy for sure !
This little guy pulled the hub off the axles and the tie rods.
Now if you are going to take this to a shop to press in/out you are good to go and can avoid the next steps.
Since I was going to install new steering knuckles, I had to remove the tie rod from the old assembly. How do you break free a nut that is torqued down at 91 ft/lbs off a free standing assembly ? Tried all kinds of things then 'ding' florescent bulb goes off. I installed it onto the tire. Also- the tie rods won't go on to the new steering knuckles as the shield is in the way. I bent the old one out of the way. Undo the 4 10mm bolts that hold the shield in place, rotate out of the way, pop in the tie rod end, torque, install cotter pin.
Here's the new assembly and how I torqued the tie rod bolt to 91 ft/lbs.
Assembly is the reverse of removal. What ?? Sorry, this is not Chiltons....
Now if you took your hubs to a shop, please join back in the thread as the reassembly steps will apply.
The first side I needed my wife to help me wrestle the new one in and it took a ton of pushing and shoving to get the 2 bolts from the lower tie rod to the lower control arm in and the axle and the upper arm to the shock. Well, it's way easier if you just do one thing at a time.
FIrst, clean the axle cuz if your bearings went like mine, your axle splines are covered in crap. Used WD40 and a wire brush but at a minimum, make it slippery.
Next, slide the axle onto the hub. Then lift the whole thing up and drop the 2 studs into the holes in the lower control arm. Don't worry about the upper part to shock mount yet.
Lift the whole assembly up so that the triangular tab that has the two studs and the bolt hole are flat against the lower control arm and install the bolt. Use Loctite on these as the factory did. Torque them to 94 ft/lbs.
Use a pry bar (delicately) against the axle to align the shock bolt holes with the steering knuckle bolt holes. Slide the 2 bolts in and using Loctie, torque those suckers to 170 ft/lbs and hope you never have to do this ever again. But if you do, you know how to pop these puppies off.
Install the steering tie rod, torque to 36 ft/lbs, install cotter pin.
Reinstall the brake caliper. Note that your pads/inner bracket may have moved, align them (while keeping any greasy appendages clear of the pads). Torque the two bolts to 75 ft/lbs. Again, turning the wheel in your direction makes this much easier to do.
Reroute and reinstall the two bolts holding the brake line/ABS wire, re-attach the plastic ABS sensor wire clip, clean the ABS sensor end (why not ?) and bolt it back on.
Now another hard learned lesson. How do you torque down the axle nut ? Well, prior posts on this subject a few folks offered pearls of wisdom.
Pop off the center Lexus logo cap from your rim. Install the tire. A trick I learned in high school, use your "X" tire iron to lift the tire into position.
Lift your tire into position with one hand, while the other hand starts the lug nuts.
Use your impact wrench to tighten the axle nut as far as you can go. Lower the car so the tire touches the garage floor. Torque the axle nut to 217 ft/lb. Jack back up the car, reinstall the jack stand (safety third ? lol). Remove the tire and using a punch, make the next guys life miserable or yours not so bad by punching down the axle nut part into the channel in the axle super deep (like the factory) or just enough so it won't move.
Install the tire, torque the lug nuts to 76 ft/lbs. And after 25 miles or so, re-torque them, just to be safe.
Hope this helps you tackle this job yourself. Hopefully with my pain and suffering as your guide, you can do this much quicker than I did (the first side is where all the lessons came).
Appreciate any feedback to improve this thread for all of us that have Gen 2 RX's as we are all going to have to do this !
Of course the wife goes. Nice, it drives like it used to. Should you do the rears ? Well, that's another time and when I do it, another thread. I think they are WAY easier than the front for sure.
Aloha and Mahalo from the island that is covered in lava (according to the news).
Cheers.
